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While not the easiest job in the world, it is
something that can be down with only a few special tools needed.
The first article is info given to us on a clutch only replacement.
After doing the job I can agree pretty much with everything that is there.
Also below this article is the story of my engine service project on my
87. I dropped the engine to not only replace the clutch, but also
to do some work on the engine. Hopefully these two articles will
let one know what they are getting into when doing this job. The
worst part of a clutch job BY FAR is trying to get the transaxle back onto
the crankshaft. While many struggle with transmission jacks, I found
that while somewhat of an overkill, an engine hoist works perfect to hold
the transaxle in the air while you try to jiggle it back onto the engine.
Another alternative taken by some to install come-alongs into celing trusses
to
The following clutch replacement notes come from Marcus Corbin <crrmcc@tmn.com> Clutch replacement notes:
I recently replaced my clutch on my 1988 NA and wrote up a few notes. Job took about 22 hours, all told, for me, someone with fairly limited auto repair experience, but quite a few useful tools. A garage was absolutely essential for me since the job was spread over many days. I found it was extremely helpful to have a variety tools. It's amazing to me how many times just the right tool came in useful - not exotic tools, but different lengths of extensions, for example, and different sizes of socket wrenches (the actual handles, not the sockets - the small one fit where others wouldn't). I only got one SST, a clutch pilot tool, a cheaper - in this case just-as-good - non-Toyota one. The single most useful tool, in the end was the most crude: a long, heavy, industrial strength Craftsman crowbar! By far the most difficult part of the job for me was both getting the transmission off the engine, and then getting it back on the engine. I did both entirely by myself, so I don't know whether a second person would be real useful, but they might well be, particularly in getting it back on, where two people pushing at various angles might be a whole lot easier than one moving around the car top and bottom. I spent maybe five or six hours of my total on those two simple tasks. I think I used almost every tool in my kit, and
mine has more than the basics. I remember using:
2 hydraulic jacks, as shown in the Big Green Book. I think it would be rather difficult without (and more dangerous underneath the car).
The job was definitely worth doing myself. It was quite straightforward except for the very frustrating tranny on & off part. A reputable dealer quote was over $950, so it was worth it financially alone! I probably could have had it done for less, but I'm not sure much less. I also don't have a mechanic that I trust to take care with my car, so it was better to do it myself. On the other hand, I knew I could have screwed up something, but this job isn't really difficult, I'd say, it just needs time, tools, and determination. So far the car is doing wonderfully. The only difference for the worse is that the fifth-gear movement (the gear shift lever moving as the accelerator is pressed or released - the phenomenon has been mentioned on the MR-2 digest) is worse - it vibrates a little more now, which makes a noise, but I don't think that's a serious problem. Doing the job myself I do know that a careful job was done, torquing the bolts correctly etc., which I couldn't be sure of if someone else did it. As always, follow other people's suggestions at your own risk. Notes refer to pages and steps in the Big Green Book, 1988. Baggie and label everything! MT-3, 2. Gear Oil Draining gear oil may not be necessary. I didn't do it, and didn't need to. I lost a bit of tranny oil, but only because I inadvertantly pulled off the side gear shaft while levering off the tranny. 5. Speedo Cable My speedometer cable sheath was stuck to the nut that holds the sheath to the tranny. I took the cable off by undoing both the round nut with ridges that holds it on, and by twisting the cable with it. I was afraid the twisting of the sheath would no longer allow my speedometer cable to rotate smoothly, but thanks to tough Toyota parts, there was no problem. To avoid what I did, I imagine one would grab the nut with one set of pliers, and just above grab the sheath with another, but I can't guarantee that wouldn't damage the sheath too if you squeezed too hard. 7., 8. Under Covers The "engine under cover" and the "fuel tank protector" are very fancy descriptions of nothing more than the plastic guards on the bottom of the car. MT-4, 10. (d) Clutch Release I thought it useful to hang the clutch release cylinder from coat hanger wire so as not to let it hang by its hose. 11. Exhaust An alternative, if your mid exhaust pipe joints are utterly rusted together (e.g. at cat), is to disconnect just the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection and then remove everything back from there as one piece. 12. (a) Drive Shafts The "transaxle protector" is a curved small sheet of metal that goes above the left side side gear shaft. There's a picture of it at MT-97, 7.(b). The right socket extension bars help here. MT-5, 17. (a) Engine Mounting One thing that might have made the job _much_ easier was a tool I debated getting, but didn't in the end: a pivotable transmission cradle. You can get ones that drop right into a regular jack, I believe. The key is that it will tilt, and hold in position, allowing you to put the tranny at just the right angle to be slid off or on the engine. What I did was bolt a simple plywood platform with stops but no tilt, to my jack. It worked okay - particularly, it was stable and strong enough that the tranny wasn't unbalanced and didn't topple off the platform as I was trying to lower it. MT-6, 18. (a) Transaxle Removal There were three transaxle mounting bolts, two on top, and one on the right side of the engine, toward the rear of the car. (b) Sounds so simple, "remove the transaxle from the engine." Took me hours and hours. Getting it off was ultimately a matter of levering with the crowbar off a good leverage point, I think the final one was of some part of the engine with the crowbar pointing toward the center bottom rear of the car. Once the right angle and leverage was applied, the tranny slid off maddeningly easily. Two crowbars and two people might really help. 19. Side Gear I found no need to remove the side gear. I did, by accident while levering, and tranny oil proceeded to come out, so I quickly popped it back in. If yours does come out, make sure it goes back in so the bolt pattern lines up properly with the half-shaft axles. The three pairs of studs have either an unthreaded stud or no stud in their middle, which line up with corresponding holes on the CV joint on the axle. CL-12, 1. HEALTH HAZARD Toyota confirmed that an '88 clutch has asbestos in it. My bell housing and clutch area was covered with a red-brown dust that I assume was clutch stuff. So I would strongly recommend wearing a mask while in this area, and possibly wetting and cleaning some of it away if that helps stop it getting airborne. CL-13, 2. (c) Remove Disc I would recommend looking at the clutch as you take it off to help remember which side goes on first. 3. Release Bearing I think this step can be ommitted if you don't want to check the parts or lubricate them too precisely. 1. Inspection My clutch was at very nearly the minimum rivet depth. I was surprised it wasn't further gone, because the car jerked somewhat when the old clutch was engaged, presumably slipping. CL-14, 4. Diaphram Spring My diaphragm spring wear was only .1 mm depth and 2-3 mm width at 75,000 miles. This was important because the dealer where I ordered the clutch insisted that it was standard procedure to replace the clutch cover as well as the clutch, once you're in there. In my case that will only be true if my clutch cover/diaphragm spring wear out at a much faster rate from here on out. The clutch cover was quite expensive, more than the clutch I think, so I think I did the right thing in not replacing it this time around. 1. Install Disc BIG TIP: Use an after market clutch pilot too rather than the official, extremely expensive, hard to get, and long time a-coming Toyota special service tool. If you have a car parts store with clerks who have more brains than goats, you can get the tool there, or if like me, you don't, you can get one for $2.46 from LBC Autoparts Warehouse in PA, 800-382-1322. Worked fine. Since getting the tranny back on was such a hassle, I'd say it is worth it to get the tool, plus it's so cheap. 2. Tip Alignment I didn't get the tool to check the tip alignment, so I didn't bother doing so, apart from giving it an A in the "eyeball" test. CL-15, 6. Install Transaxle "Install Transaxle to engine" - another colossal understatement. Getting the tranny back on was a matter of getting it to line up just right (endlessly lowering and raising the two jacks in different combinations to try to find that right line), and then levering at that position. Again, two people to lever would probably help. It was not at all a matter of muscle, it was just a matter of levering enough times in different ways to hit the right angle. MT-96, 2. Transaxle to Engine I don't know what the bolt sizes given refer to, since mine were 17 and 14mm. MT-97, 5. (c) Front Engine Mounting Mine didn't quite line up, and "bouncing the engine" didn't make it. Anybody know if it matters? That's it.
Steve Neese's Engine service: It was almost a very merry Christmas, but I guess a day late isn't bad! As some of you may have remembered, I was planning
to drop the engine
Mon: Got the car in the garage, and started takin
stuff off. Got
Tues: Start taking the engine apart. Got
the tranny off and low and
Wed: Go into town, buy a few things and get the
flywheel re-surfaced.
Thurs: Get the idler pulley at local dealer ($78!
Ouch! free donuts
Fri: Do the Christmas thing and break away at
1, thinking "Man I can
Sat: Get up thinking I can get the sender
on easy, WRONG. Had to take
Anyway, the results: The car runs great! The TRD clutch is great!
I hadn't driven my car
Comments and questions: That AC is a PAIN! All it was doing was
getting in the way and causing
Why in the world is the alternator so hard to
get back into its
For those that are going to pull the engine and
haven't before, I would
Speaking of the BGB, once again, it has paid for
itself over and over.
I think I might have a leaking distributor.
No not the o-ring, but
When I was looking for info for the distributor
bearings, I used the Mr2
As far as tools go, I used the advice of the list
and didn't get any
Finally: Man what a week. I guess I am glad I did
it. ;) Hey at least it all
Once again I want to thank all that gave me advice
on this project
I later found out that they way you put in the alternator is to insert a bolt and nut with two large washers into the pivot circle that is in the alternator bracket. Tightening this up pulls the pivot circle back, and the alternator will slide right into place. And while having an impact air gun helped greatly it is not required... A gear puller will prob also be required.
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